The Pedernales (pronounced “Per-din-al-is” to you foreigners) river drains much of the hill country west of Austin. Arising in Kimble County, the Pedernales flows through Fredericksburg, the LBJ Ranch, Johnson City, and ultimately meets the Colorado River in Lake Travis. About an hour west of Austin, the river drops over Pedernales Falls. Over 4,000 acres around the falls is part of a state park.
Pedernales Falls State Park hits a sweet spot in terms of what it offers. You can find more spectacular hiking (E Rock), better swimming holes (Balmorhea), more dramatic scenery (Palo Duro), and clearer rivers (Devils) – but not a single place with all of that within an hour of a big city. It checks a lot of boxes.
The River
TPWD has basically split the river into a portion where you can swim and tube, and a portion where you can’t. The part where you can’t swim is the falls and immediate miles downstream; for safety from flash floods and, I suspect the real reason, people being idiots. The hiking around the falls is great. Lots of interesting rock formations as the river flows over tilted limestone, and lots of opportunities for exploring.
Downstream there is a dedicated swimming area. The river here is pretty shallow and runs clear over a rocky bottom. Big cypress trees line the banks and it’s a good place to hang a hammock. The river is normally clear and cool, with good water quality. There is usually also a small rope swing.
The Trails
There are many miles of trails in the park for hikers, horses, and mountain biking. I have hiked some, and even volunteered at a night trail run at the park. The trails are fine but not the attraction. The attraction is the river.
Camping
The park has 69 car-camping sites. Some have shade but many are exposed. Good fall-winter-spring camping but in the summer, you may want a rig with A/C.
The backcountry sites are great for taking kids on a backpacking trip. They are situated on a shaded bluff above the river, about a two-mile hike from the trailhead. There is a pit toilet nearby. From the sites you can follow the draws down to the river. I have camped here with my kids and with scout groups and we had lots of fun.
Rating
Pedernales Falls State Park gets 4 stars. You can swim, climb rocks, and relax a short drive from Austin. Even if you are just driving through its worth a few hours to hike the falls and swim the river. If you live in central Texas, spend some more time there – it’s fun.
Vamonos Baby! 